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SHIRAZ: COMFORT FOOD, ARMENIAN-STYLE
By Bill Clapper Telegram & Gazette Reviewer
Worcester Telegram, MA
Aug 1 2013
The small, family-run Shiraz Armenian Cuisine along Worcester's busy
Park Avenue is a journey back to a time when neighborhood restaurants
thrived on the authenticity of their particular ethnic cuisines.
At Shiraz that means Middle Eastern dishes with the strong influence
of Armenian, Syrian and Greek cultures prepared in traditional ways.
Add to the authentic food continuous Middle Eastern music and snatches
of conversations in various languages and you have a slice of Middle
East culture in Worcester.
There are no frills or pretention at Shiraz because the emphasis
is on the food. The decor featured cafeteria-style metal chairs,
covered in blue vinyl, hovering in groups of two or four around faux
wood grain metal tables. The tables were aligned in neat rows leading
to the back of the restaurant and kitchen.
The few objects de art on the generally white walls are small drawings,
photos and prints of people and places Armenian. They are unobtrusive
and speak to a time when proud restaurateurs put their framed newspaper
clippings on the wall.
But we didn't venture to Shiraz on a rainy mid-week evening for
the decor ... We were there for the food and on that score Shiraz
surpassed all our expectations. As we were finishing our meal, my
partner summed up the experience by announcing, "This is comfort food."
We wanted to sample as much as we could so we decided to share the
combination plate ($10.95), which featured generous dollops of humus
and babaganoosh, tobouleh and three large stuffed grape leaves.
Triangles of fresh pita bread accompanied the plate.
Each of the samples generated positive responses, as the flavors
exploded on our palates. The humus was nutty and velvety smooth, with
more than adequate garlic and lemon juice. The babaganoosh began with
roasted eggplant that infused the baba with a deep, pungent almost
smoky flavor. The tobouleh was zesty with lemon juice and perky with
fresh, chopped parsley.
But it was the stuffed grape leaves that elevated the plate to
greatness. The rice, ground lamb, onions and spices of the stuffing
perfectly complemented the oiled grape leaves.
Other appetizers that we reluctantly bypassed included: jajek ($4.95),
cucumber with mint and garlic in yogurt; eggplant salad ($7.50),
grilled eggplant with onions, peppers, tomatoes, parsley, lemon and
olive oil; and meat pie ($4.75), ground beef and spices in a pie.
The entrees were dominated by various iterations of kebabs ($10.50 to
$14.50) but also had traditional Middle Eastern dishes such as gyros
($9.25), stuffed grape leaves ($9.95) and kibbee ($10.50). A chicken
Port Said ($15.95) and a stuffed keffa ($12.75) also stood out.
As an appeal to traditional American tastes, Shiraz offers sirloin
steak with mushrooms and onions ($14.50) and one seafood dish -
grilled swordfish with broiled tomato ($14.95). There are also burgers
($4.75 to $8.25), and pockets both vegetarian ($5.50 to $7.95) and meat
($6.95 to $8.25).
In harmony with the spirit of Shiraz, we settled on the spinach pie
($9.50) and eggplant kebab ($10.50).
The individual spinach pie was delightful. The spinach mixture was
tangy with abundant spices while the bread (made in-house) outer shell,
formed into a triangle, was light yet hearty. The bread dough spinach
pie is a departure from the traditional filo dough version and makes
a different kind of treat.
On the opposite side of our table, a plate of ground beef and ground
lamb patties alternated with roasted eggplant on a bed of roasted
green beans and a tomato-based sauce. Served with a delicately seasoned
rice pilaf, the eggplant kebab was simple yet fulfilling.
While not exotic, the meals at Shiraz are what you would expect from
a neighborhood restaurant that caters to the Middle Eastern community.
When it came time for dessert, Shiraz offered four choices including
a non-traditional cream baklava ($2.75) with custard taking the place
of the nut and honey mixture. We had to try it and were amused with
the blending of the filo leaves and the custard.
A good attempt, but for my taste it's all about the nuts and honey in
baklava and with neither walnuts nor pistachios, the cream version
wasn't my idea of baklava. Next time, I will stay with traditional
baklava ($2.75).
We also ordered kataif cream ($3), which was a shredded dough over a
much too sweet custard. Coffee tended to modulate the sugary creamy
custard but the sweetness dominated the dish. The other dessert was
rice pudding ($2.75).
For a night out during a busy work week, Shiraz is a perfect choice.
Good food that is well-prepared, fast service and no bar/lounge
distractions. Our quiet dinner for two with wine came to a very
reasonable $69.66 before taxes and tip.
http://www.telegram.com/article/20130801/NEWS/308019972/1312
By Bill Clapper Telegram & Gazette Reviewer
Worcester Telegram, MA
Aug 1 2013
The small, family-run Shiraz Armenian Cuisine along Worcester's busy
Park Avenue is a journey back to a time when neighborhood restaurants
thrived on the authenticity of their particular ethnic cuisines.
At Shiraz that means Middle Eastern dishes with the strong influence
of Armenian, Syrian and Greek cultures prepared in traditional ways.
Add to the authentic food continuous Middle Eastern music and snatches
of conversations in various languages and you have a slice of Middle
East culture in Worcester.
There are no frills or pretention at Shiraz because the emphasis
is on the food. The decor featured cafeteria-style metal chairs,
covered in blue vinyl, hovering in groups of two or four around faux
wood grain metal tables. The tables were aligned in neat rows leading
to the back of the restaurant and kitchen.
The few objects de art on the generally white walls are small drawings,
photos and prints of people and places Armenian. They are unobtrusive
and speak to a time when proud restaurateurs put their framed newspaper
clippings on the wall.
But we didn't venture to Shiraz on a rainy mid-week evening for
the decor ... We were there for the food and on that score Shiraz
surpassed all our expectations. As we were finishing our meal, my
partner summed up the experience by announcing, "This is comfort food."
We wanted to sample as much as we could so we decided to share the
combination plate ($10.95), which featured generous dollops of humus
and babaganoosh, tobouleh and three large stuffed grape leaves.
Triangles of fresh pita bread accompanied the plate.
Each of the samples generated positive responses, as the flavors
exploded on our palates. The humus was nutty and velvety smooth, with
more than adequate garlic and lemon juice. The babaganoosh began with
roasted eggplant that infused the baba with a deep, pungent almost
smoky flavor. The tobouleh was zesty with lemon juice and perky with
fresh, chopped parsley.
But it was the stuffed grape leaves that elevated the plate to
greatness. The rice, ground lamb, onions and spices of the stuffing
perfectly complemented the oiled grape leaves.
Other appetizers that we reluctantly bypassed included: jajek ($4.95),
cucumber with mint and garlic in yogurt; eggplant salad ($7.50),
grilled eggplant with onions, peppers, tomatoes, parsley, lemon and
olive oil; and meat pie ($4.75), ground beef and spices in a pie.
The entrees were dominated by various iterations of kebabs ($10.50 to
$14.50) but also had traditional Middle Eastern dishes such as gyros
($9.25), stuffed grape leaves ($9.95) and kibbee ($10.50). A chicken
Port Said ($15.95) and a stuffed keffa ($12.75) also stood out.
As an appeal to traditional American tastes, Shiraz offers sirloin
steak with mushrooms and onions ($14.50) and one seafood dish -
grilled swordfish with broiled tomato ($14.95). There are also burgers
($4.75 to $8.25), and pockets both vegetarian ($5.50 to $7.95) and meat
($6.95 to $8.25).
In harmony with the spirit of Shiraz, we settled on the spinach pie
($9.50) and eggplant kebab ($10.50).
The individual spinach pie was delightful. The spinach mixture was
tangy with abundant spices while the bread (made in-house) outer shell,
formed into a triangle, was light yet hearty. The bread dough spinach
pie is a departure from the traditional filo dough version and makes
a different kind of treat.
On the opposite side of our table, a plate of ground beef and ground
lamb patties alternated with roasted eggplant on a bed of roasted
green beans and a tomato-based sauce. Served with a delicately seasoned
rice pilaf, the eggplant kebab was simple yet fulfilling.
While not exotic, the meals at Shiraz are what you would expect from
a neighborhood restaurant that caters to the Middle Eastern community.
When it came time for dessert, Shiraz offered four choices including
a non-traditional cream baklava ($2.75) with custard taking the place
of the nut and honey mixture. We had to try it and were amused with
the blending of the filo leaves and the custard.
A good attempt, but for my taste it's all about the nuts and honey in
baklava and with neither walnuts nor pistachios, the cream version
wasn't my idea of baklava. Next time, I will stay with traditional
baklava ($2.75).
We also ordered kataif cream ($3), which was a shredded dough over a
much too sweet custard. Coffee tended to modulate the sugary creamy
custard but the sweetness dominated the dish. The other dessert was
rice pudding ($2.75).
For a night out during a busy work week, Shiraz is a perfect choice.
Good food that is well-prepared, fast service and no bar/lounge
distractions. Our quiet dinner for two with wine came to a very
reasonable $69.66 before taxes and tip.
http://www.telegram.com/article/20130801/NEWS/308019972/1312