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ISTANBUL: One pomegranate, twelve grapes, a thousand lentils

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  • ISTANBUL: One pomegranate, twelve grapes, a thousand lentils

    Hurriyet Daily News, Turkey
    Dec 30 2013

    One pomegranate, twelve grapes, a thousand lentils

    AYLÄ°N Ã-NEY TAN - [email protected]


    What a year it has been! Turkey has been going through turmoil and our
    table was much flavored with peppery tear gas this year. Only a day
    left to step into 2014, we need an urgent fix of fate. Our change of
    chance for the better might well come from what we eat on New Year's
    Eve.

    Superstitions they are, people all over the world cannot help nibbling
    fortune-bringing food, even if they are complete non-believers.
    Certain foods are believed to bring good luck, prosperity, wealth,
    good health, and it is almost obligatory to have these on the table,
    to ensure a prosperous year. Here are my favorites, I personally will
    try to have them all, as I hope 2014 will be the year to move forward
    and to start anew.

    Pomegranate must be the single food that all will agree on in this
    part of the world. An ancient symbol of fertility and plenty, it is
    customary to smash a pomegranate on the door step just as the New Year
    turns, a ritual observed especially by the Greek and Armenians. `One
    in the market, a thousand at home' is the Turkish expression that
    signifies the trust in pomegranates, a prosperity symbol for ages in
    Turkey, now also very popular worldwide; the attractive fruit has
    become very hip and trendy in the recent years. No festive food
    photography seems to exist without a few glossy pomegranate seeds
    adorning the food, regardless whether it's relevant to the taste or
    not. A food writer friend from the Netherlands was recently
    complaining on Facebook that she could not stand any longer this
    pomegranate craze, and to my surprise she surrendered within a week or
    so, starting to post delightful pictures of desserts sprinkled with
    jewel-like ruby-colored seeds.

    Fruits really cheer up a table and another one not to forget is the
    twelve grapes. This habit is definitely Spanish, observed also in
    Portugal and many Latin countries, a tradition originated in the
    wine-making region of Alicante almost a century ago, one has to gobble
    down twelve grapes when the countdown for the New Year starts. Known
    as `Las doce uvas de la suerte' (The twelve grapes of luck), this last
    minute rescue attempt is supposed to bring good luck, but if done too
    hastily, one can choke and need a true rescue operation. My plan is
    also to take twelve simultaneous sips from my champagne hoping that my
    spirits will be lifted by zillions of bubbles that rise to the
    surface, and the malign influence in my life disappears forever just
    like the fading fizz. After all champagne is also from grapes, so why
    not double-secure luck for the New Year! Though more for the Chinese
    New Year, one can easily nibble a tangerine or another bright
    orange-colored fruit, to make 2014 shine like gold.

    If a single pomegranate or a dozen grapes seem too weak of an attempt
    to secure a year of plenty, then one has to go for numbers, and try to
    eat thousands of lentils, beans or wheat berries. Eating lentils is
    the ultimate superstition in Italy, no table can be without.
    Double-secured by the lucky pig, (to be precise pig trotter sausage
    `cotechino'), eating as many lentils as possible will bring as many
    coins.

    In the years of the inflated Italian Lire, this seemed to be an almost
    useless desperate attempt to build a fortune, but now with the Euro,
    one can easily hope to fill a chest, or settle for a full belly at
    least.

    Many countries use beans instead; the bean-eating Latin countries seem
    to have duplicated the lentil tradition of Italy. Another mythical
    miracle fortune food is the mighty wheat berry, so powerful in its
    symbolism. Bowls of sweetened boiled wheat berries will adorn many
    tables in Ukraine, a tradition also observed in Belarus, Lithuania,
    and in some parts of Poland. This classic Christmas sweet is also
    relevant for the New Year, with countless poppy seeds, another
    good-old symbol of abundance. In Russia very similar sochivo, but
    without the poppies, is a must to hope for a full pocket. One really
    believes that works, at least some of the Russians oligarchs must have
    observed this. The ultimate New Year wheat berry sweet in Turkey is
    the Armenian anush abur, very similar to ashure which is made for
    welcoming the first month of the Islamic New Year. The intention is
    similar, to start anew with good fortune, no coincidence that they're
    both graced with pomegranate seeds.

    To extend the table for more security one can continue in the first
    breakfast of the year and have ring shaped rolls, poppy bagels, donuts
    or better still a Turkish simit with lots of sesame seeds, (yes
    another symbol of plenty) to represent the wholeness and unbroken full
    circle of the year coming.

    Now you all know what's going to be on my New Year Eve's table! My
    wishes are no secrets but as it is considered unlucky to reveal the
    New Year wishes, better to keep silent and hope silence will
    eventually pay off. So cheers for a GOOD year, CLEAN from misfortunes
    of the last one, FAIR for all!


    December/30/2013

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