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Under The Rock: A Visit To Karabakh's Qarin Tak Village

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  • Under The Rock: A Visit To Karabakh's Qarin Tak Village

    UNDER THE ROCK: A VISIT TO KARABAKH'S QARIN TAK VILLAGE

    http://www.armenianow.com/society/features/48068/qarin_tak_karabakh_war
    FEATURES | 26.07.13 | 16:19

    Photo: Gayane Lazarian/ArmeniaNow.com

    By GAYANE MKRTCHYAN
    ArmeniaNow reporter

    The Soviet-production Volga-24 car moves with great difficulty against
    the almost impassable ascent. After a while, the car pulls over and
    our driver says if he continues a little farther he would be unable to
    return. We pay him for the ride and cross the rest of the way on foot.

    After walking down two winding turns, the village comes into our sight,
    hidden under a massive cliff.

    Enlarge Photo Marietta Asatryan and Nora Arushanyan

    Enlarge Photo Shurik Gharakhanyan (left)

    Enlarge Photo Mayor and Lena Sargsyans

    Above shines the diamond of Artsakh (historic name for Nagorno
    Karabakh) - Shushi, beneath is Qarin Tak. A mighty waterfall streamed
    down from Shushi and formed Qarin Tak beneath a giant rock (the name
    literally means 'under the rock'). It is due to the heroic resistance
    of this settlement nested in the armpit of a magnificent huge rock
    - Artsvabuyn (Eagle Nest), that Shushi was liberated at the time,
    giving a major strategic advantage to the Armenian side, crucial for
    the entire further course of the war (1992-1994) against the Azeris.

    "Dear one, ... our village is a hero. If we had not defended this
    village, the 'Turks' [people of Karabakh commonly refer to the Azeris
    as 'Turks'] would have taken all of Karabakh... No way you have not
    heard about us, this hero-village!" says 85-year-old Nora Arushanyan,
    half-surprised, half-angry.

    Women are all gathered at the village store. Men stand in a group a
    little farther away. They notice us, strangers, as soon as we enter
    the village. Seconds later they recognize that they are dealing with
    reporters and invite to their places. The war has divided life in
    Qarin Tak into 'old' and 'new'. The 'old' held almost no social issues,
    but they lived on the verge of losing their identity, deprived of the
    right to have ethnic values, the 'new' has plenty of social issues
    and hardship, but they live on their own land with an owner's right.

    "We live with constant fear in our hearts, we visit Shushi, but
    again with fear. They used to tell us 'you are haram' ['illicit,
    ill-gotten' in Turkish], 'Armenians are haram'. Before they would
    not let us say 'Qarin Tak', we had to use the Turkish name Dashalti,"
    says the village head's secretary Stella Babayan.

    The slogan of Qarin Tak is one: "We have liberated ourselves from the
    'Turks', so thank God, let it be a mouthful less, it's ok, we can
    live with it. What matters most - no more war."

    In Qarin Tak every resident is a hero and a chronicler.

    Lena Sargsyan, 74, says: "We are Karabakh's gate. If we failed to keep
    our village at the time, they would have seized all the surrounding
    villages as well. Long live our village guys, they are good, good men".

    The huge rock is locally referred to as "kerts" and every other word
    is related to "kerts" one way or another. "Darling, right next to the
    'kerts', under the 'kerts', or 'our kerts'."

    "Right from the top of 'kerts' they rolled down burning wheels
    and barrels onto the village, like rain shells would fall on our
    heads... On January 26 of 1992 the Azeri carried out large-scale attack
    with a few hundred soldiers, experienced officer personnel. They
    blocked all roads to the village and tried to suffocate us
    inside. Nobody left the village, we stayed and fought, young and old,
    to survive. Eight hours later the Azeri left having incurred heavy
    losses (150 dead)," tells Shurik Gharakhanyan, who knows firsthand
    what it means to be at war.

    Past is where the village's present should be, memories of it holding
    the hopes for the future. What matters, they say, is that the village
    does not have locked doors, people are not leaving, despite the
    hardship. Men are engaged in construction in Shushi and Stepanakert,
    also agriculture, animal breeding. There are 667 people living in
    Qarin Tak, the school has 110 students, 23 minors attend kindergarten.

    The village has natural gas supply.

    "There was a silk factory in the village during the Soviet times,
    people were employed at Shushi's manufacturing entities, villagers
    did little livestock breeding or farming, because the economic issues
    could not be solved through those. Hence they are only now trying
    to develop agriculture there. If an economic entity opened locally
    it would ease the villagers' burden greatly," says Edward Abaghyan,
    accountant at the village administration.

    The two main issues of Qarin Tak are drinking water and the road to
    the village.

    This year the All-Armenia Hayastan Fund completed the first stage
    of repairs of the village's water supply system, due to which the
    village will have regular drinking water supply. However, having a
    good road remains to be a dream yet.

    Major Sargsyan, 77, and Lena, 74, have their days filled with memories
    with days bygone and thoughts about their children living abroad. The
    photographs of their three sons and grandchildren are placed in a
    corner of a big mirror. Their sons left the village long before the
    war. One of them settled in Khabarovsk, the other two in Ashkhabad.

    "When my son was in the army in Germany, one of his best buddies
    turned out to be Azeri. He told his father that his best friend's
    parents lived in Qarin Tak, 'go see them', he said. It was during the
    blockade. One day we saw the 'Turk' pulling over his car loaded with
    food: what fruits, what goods!... but the 'cup of patience was full'
    and there was no other way," recalls Lena.

    Her husband, Major, sings about the heroes, then unshed tears contract
    his throat making him stop, and his eyes pick up the song and carry
    it on.

    "As soon as the night fell I would put a sack of potatoes over my
    shoulder and go to sow in rows. They stood on the top of the rock,
    watching to shoot. In the morning I would see I had sowed the rows
    crooked. It was some life we had, dear, but we had to survive, to
    continue living..." tells Major.

    Major responds to Azeri President Ilham Aliyev's recent war rhetoric
    this way: "Once they ask a barking dog why it keeps barking. The dog
    says 'I want to bite'. They ask the dog why it is wagging its tail
    then. The dog says 'I am afraid, too'. They failed to break this
    small village with hundreds of soldiers..."

    He gives a definite answer to the question about the NKR's
    international recognition: "One day the international community will
    recognize, because there is a people in this world which fought for
    its land, for life, for freedom, for independence."


    From: Baghdasarian
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