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Beirut: The Syrian Market in Bourj Hammoud

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  • Beirut: The Syrian Market in Bourj Hammoud

    Al-Akhbar, Lebanon
    May 24 2013


    Beirut: The Syrian Market in Bourj Hammoud

    By: Anas Zarzar
    Published Friday, May 24, 2013

    Syrian vendors dot the alleyways of Beirut's Bourj Hammoud
    neighborhood. Here, refugees take refuge from dependence on foreign
    aid. Their motto is to sell a lot and profit a little, just to help
    make ends meet.

    Refusing to accept certain negative stereotypes, some Syrians have
    taken the opportunity to look for small business projects in the area.
    The result is a market that has come to be known as the `Syrians'
    Market.'

    Our Syrian guide, who arrived in Beirut from the Damascus countryside
    a year ago, took us through the largely Armenian Bourj Hammoud,
    passing by the famous `Mano: The King of Basturma' and through the
    popular Marash market. The area's tight alleyways and modest shops are
    a reminder of some neighborhoods on the outskirts of Damascus.

    Soon, the accents of vendors hawking their wares took on a distinctive
    Syrian lilt. Our guide explained to us that when this market opened
    about six months ago, its low prices quickly made it famous. In the
    beginning, there were just two stores until the offerings soon grew to
    include food, clothing, and household wares.

    A number of customers gathered in front of a small shop selling canned
    food, produce, and bread. The shop has earned a good reputation
    because its owner, Abu Ahmad, prices his merchandise carefully.
    The shopkeeper escaped with his family from the city of Rastan,
    located in the countryside of the Homs governorate. He spent many
    months moving between Lebanese cities, living off assistance offered
    by philanthropists, before he finally settled down. Despite this rough
    journey, he's full of the good humor that those from Homs are known
    for.

    We asked him about the secret of his shop's success. He replied,
    `Since the day I took over managing the shop, my motto has been to
    sell a lot and profit a little. This way you gain doubled earnings and
    the prayers of the poor.'

    `I ate canned food with my family for months. That is why I understand
    very well what my merchandise means for poor people looking for
    sustenance,' he said.

    One of his customers said, `Here, you buy four sardine cans instead of
    three from another place, which means you get more food for the same
    price to feed your large family.'

    Mowaffak al-Nouri, a 24-year-old from Aleppo, is busy arranging the
    vegetables and fruits at his shop's entrance while his brother Mufid
    works the scale. The two brothers, who escaped the fighting in their
    home city, were able to find a place in the Syrians' Market. Their
    sales and pricing policy does not differ much from their neighbor Abu
    Ahmad.

    Lebanese landlords and capitalists have taken note of the profits that
    the Syrian refugees are bringing in. In return, they've increased the
    shops' rents.

    Mowaffak confirmed this. `The landlord suddenly raised the rent from
    $400 to $800 and without prior notice. When we objected, he suggested
    sharing our profits while keeping the rent as is,' he said.

    But Mowaffak and his brother preferred to give up the room they live
    in and turn the shop into a place of work during the day and a place
    of residence at night, `so that no one can steal our hard work and our
    modest success.'

    Abu Khaled has a different story. This Syrian refugee used to own a
    brick-making plant in the city of Raqqa. He escaped the city seven
    months ago when it was overtaken by war and destruction. In Beirut,
    Abu Khaled, who is in his 50s, worked on construction sites in return
    for a meal and a place to sleep, which was often the construction site
    itself.

    He finally found what he was looking for at the Syrians' Market. It
    became a home and a place to work, as well as a place to practice his
    hobby of playing the oud. Abu Khaled helps shopkeepers arrange and
    sell merchandise in return for food and lodging.

    We asked him about his family. He said that he has a wife and five
    children. `Every day I try to call them to hear their voices, but no
    one answers.'

    This article is an edited translation from the Arabic Edition.

    http://english.al-akhbar.com/content/beirut-syrian-market-bourj-hammoud

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