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  • Never a dull moment

    The Press & Journal
    Sept 21 2013


    Never a dull moment

    Published: 21/09/2013


    I'd been planning this little trip in my head for weeks, so now, sat
    in the back of my Lada taxi heading out of Armenia's capital Yerevan,
    I couldn't believe I'd be at my destination in half an hour.

    I already knew the basics; that Armenia produces some of the finest
    Cognacs in the world and can beat the French stuff hands down. And of
    course I'd heard the famous Churchill story and so wanted to believe
    it was true!

    As I climbed the near hundred steps up towards the vast red-brick
    fortress that loomed above me, I saw a solitary young woman standing
    waiting for me.

    Sevana, my own personal tour guide for Yerevan's famous Ararat Cognac
    Factory. She was the perfect guide in all ways and made it clear to me
    that I should not hesitate to ask her anything.

    I bit my tongue as I decided not to ask for her phone number, not yet
    anyway. C'mon man, concentrate on the cognac!

    As we walked from room to building, Sevana talked and I soaked up the
    info like a sponge, learning that Cognac had been made in this valley
    since 1887 and is to this day Armenia's most import export, vital to
    its economy.

    `If it's that good' I asked, `why has barely anyone in the west heard about it?'

    `Well of course, in Soviet times, it was not allowed to export Ararat
    and the very best was kept for the Soviet elite. Even today, 85% of
    our cognac is consumed in Russia.'

    Suddenly we came to a stop. Sevana opened a door and we entered a vast
    holding shed that contained hundreds of gigantic barrels which she
    informed me contained thousands of litres of Cognacs.

    The smell was wonderfully intoxicating and I breathed it in deep while
    taking in the sight that stood before me.

    Just as I was to ask a question, Sevana put her finger to my lips and
    whispered with a smile `Sshhh, the cognac is sleeping.'

    Towards the end of my tour, I was led into an opulent wood-panelled
    room and proudly shown a display dedicated to the greatest Britain
    ever.

    `So, tell me, and be honest here, is the Churchill story true?' I asked.

    `Most definitely' replied Sevana with conviction.

    The story goes that Ararat Cognac was served up to Churchill,
    Roosevelt and Stalin at the Yalta conference in February 1945 and on
    learning of Churchill's obvious love for it, Stalin (until his death)
    reportedly sent our Mr C an astonishing 300 bottles of Ararat, every
    year.

    Churchill later claimed he had drunk enough of the stuff to fill three
    railway carriages. Go Winston!

    Eventually I was guided by Sevana into a room with marble floors.
    Three crystal tasting glasses, three bottles of cognac and a jug of
    iced mineral water sat waiting for us on a huge glass table.

    `Now, you can taste the famous Ararat, if you care to?'

    `Oh, I care! I care!'

    The first dram was from a bottle of one-year-old Cognac and being
    left-handed I picked up my crystal glass as I would normally do which
    certainly got Sevana's approval.

    She explained: `Good, must always hold Cognac glass in left hand ...
    that way the Cognac stays closer to your heart.'

    After a sip of water, it was on to the five-year-old stuff ... oh yes,
    getting smoother all the time. No going back now. Another generous sip
    of water and it was time for the finale ... the 10-year-old Ararat.

    Oh goodness me, it was, one word - exquisite. I bought two bottles.

    Twenty minutes later (minus Sevana's number as I'd forgotten to ask
    for it) I was sat in my taxi heading back to Yerevan and I couldn't
    but help think that the bottles I was clutching contained more than
    just quality alcohol.

    For here I was holding the same drink that had oiled three old, but
    very important, men as they haggled and carved up central and east
    Europe over 70 years ago.

    NEXT WEEK: George visits Bohinj - God's Country

    http://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/Article.aspx/3391683

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