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ISTANBUL: Remainders of Sultanhamam: Cozy drapers

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  • ISTANBUL: Remainders of Sultanhamam: Cozy drapers

    Today's Zaman, Turkey
    Aug 2 2014

    Remainders of Sultanhamam: Cozy drapers

    by ARÄ°FE KABÄ°L / ISTANBUL


    Ä°stanbul has inherited many things of beauty from ancient times. It
    has places where people from different walks of life can find
    something that interests them and where they would like to spend their
    time. Some people dream of drinking tea along the coast; authors and
    writers fantasize about being in CaÄ?aloÄ?lu, and merchants long for
    Sultanhamam.

    Located on the historical peninsula, Sultanhamam was an important area
    for centuries during the Ottoman Empire, especially for the textile
    trade. It was because of Sultanhamam merchants that their business
    culture of keeping promises, honesty and generosity became more widely
    known. Likewise, the unwritten code of trade there, known as the
    Sultanhamam Rules, recommends strict business ethics rather than
    finding the most profitable job that modernity values today.

    Summing up what has changed over the decades, Sultanhamam's veteran
    traders epitomize what has been lost. Mustafa Erdebil, a merchant at
    Sultanhamam, who entered business when he was young, compares trade
    life in the earlier days to now. Erdebil greets us in his shop, which
    is removed from the shopping culture of the past. Although he says
    that `the old taste of the place is lost,' the shop still impresses
    us. Today it is difficult to see those habits in the new kind of
    markets and shopping malls.

    In earlier times, the imam of a mosque and shopkeepers from around
    would come together and talk to each other in their shop. But today we
    don't see those habits because the new generation of shopping malls
    has taken the place of old-style shops.

    During our visit, an imam from the mosque and neighboring shopkeepers
    stopped by Erdebil's shop. They talked for a while before discussions
    turned to how Sultanhamam has changed and morality been corrupted more
    and more every day.

    Erdebil disagrees with the imam in a friendly manner, saying: `I did
    not like your sermon at the Friday prayer. You should speak about the
    ethics of human morality. They have left our minds and you should
    preach about it. Otherwise, it is not helpful for people.' He was met
    with agreement from other shopkeepers. This type of conversation
    cannot take place in the new shopping malls of today. People are not
    able to voice their thoughts in those spaces, but in Sultanhamam you
    can still see these strong communal relationships.

    Trading is a special craft


    We indulge in a chat on a number of different issues and eventually
    come back to Sultanhamam, the place of trade business life. Erdebil
    begins by saying: `Sultanhamam was almost the only modern part of
    Ä°stanbul in the old days. People were supremely cultured, merchants
    were highly qualified and people trusted each other.'

    Almost all of Sultanhamam's merchants working today are continuing
    their fathers' work. Erdebil is one of those merchants. His father was
    a man who was trained in the strict environment of a medrese (school)
    and is very prim when it comes to the rightful shares of others. `He
    was so careful about behaving in the right way with his business ¦
    being a merchant doesn't mean finishing a university and becoming a
    merchant. Being a merchant is totally different. Sultanhamam's
    environment taught us how to become real merchants because we learned
    business culture, the importance of keeping promises, honesty and
    generosity in Sultanhamam's trade environment,' he said.

    Armenians crucial to business-learning environment


    Armenians taught the values of the business of trade which they had
    experienced under the Ottoman Empire. `Ottoman Armenians made
    Sultanhamam a university for merchants. Ottoman Armenians dominated
    the textile industry. They imported and exported all the time, a
    constant presence on the world market, and today they continue to
    conduct their trade honestly,' he points out.

    Today there are few remaining Armenian traders in Sultanhamam.
    According to Erdebil, they are the real veteran traders of
    Sultanhamam. He points out that Armenian traders who migrated here
    from Anatolia were happy to teach and share their experiences with
    other merchants.

    Erdebil also explains how they had strong relationships with Anatolian
    shopkeepers. "In the past, our clients from Adana, Samsun [among many
    others] came directly to us once they reached HaydarpaÅ?a [a train
    station on the Anatolian side of Ä°stanbul]. They would pack their
    sacks and leave them in front of our shops [for they were sure that
    these bags would be safe there]. They even entrusted us with their
    excess money. They wouldn't ask for their money back for months and we
    would never touch this trust even if we were in terrible need of cash.
    But today, if you leave money with someone, you may not find it again.
    There was a trust between us and shopkeepers in those days,' he says.

    `Another beauty of Sultanhamam was the relationship between the
    employee and employer. The employer's priority was not profit but
    decency and morality, too,' Erdebil added.

    Skills to be carried into the future


    The Turkish Home Textiles Industrialists and Businessmen Association
    (TETSÄ°AD) has embarked on a project to protect these cultural
    expressions. The project aims to carry Sultanhamam's trade values into
    the future. Thus, these unwritten golden rules will be brought back to
    life. A book and a documentary film have been prepared as part of this
    project.

    The documentary, titled `The Written Place of Golden Rules:
    Sultanhamam,' traces the changes that have taken place in Sultanhamam.
    The documentary focuses on the memories of 28 merchants who spent a
    big part of their lives in Sultanhamam as shopkeepers and compares
    them to the present state of Turkey's trade life. The merchants who
    share their memories have interesting stories. They wistfully
    reminisce on the virtues of the past and the unique and pleasant
    environment which characterized Sultanhamam and promises to live on
    for many years to come.


    http://www.todayszaman.com/anasayfa_remainders-of-sultanhamam-cozy-drapers_354455.html

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