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  • Do Not Compel Me To Sing

    DO NOT COMPEL ME TO SING

    Ahram Online, Egypt
    July 15 2014

    'I Left My Shoes in Istanbul' (2013), is a personal take on an enforced
    Armenian absence in Istanbul

    Anthony Alessandrini, Tuesday 15 Jul 2014

    I Left My Shoes in Istanbul, directed by Nigol Bezjian. Lebanon/Turkey,
    2013.

    Nigol Bezjian's I Left My Shoes in Istanbul begins with its protagonist
    protesting that he has no desire to go on the journey that lies at
    the heart of the film. It ends with the haunting voice of a singer,
    begging the listener, "Do not implore me, I will not sing."

    Between these two attempts to escape from a story that nevertheless
    must be told, Bezjian presents us with a vision that is deeply
    personal, not always coherent, but remarkably unsparing in documenting
    the presence of an enforced Armenian absence in Istanbul. Bezjian,
    who has written, directed, and produced for film and television
    and is perhaps best known for the 1992 film Chickpeas, has made an
    experimental documentary whose form provides us with an insistently
    personal take on the effects of the traumatic history carried by
    Armenians into the diaspora.

    In a sense, the film is the story of a double displacement and a
    double return. Bezjian is himself a member of the Armenian diaspora,
    and clearly his intention was to make a film about returning to
    Istanbul, a place of family history that he comes to as a stranger.

    But the protagonist of the film is not Bezjian himself--he never speaks
    or comes out from behind the camera--but the poet Sako Arian. Arian
    and Bezjian share similar biographies: both are descendants of
    Armenian families forced to become refugees by the genocide of 1915;
    both were born and raised in Beirut and are generally identified as
    Armenian-Lebanese artists. So Bezjian mediates his own return to
    Istanbul through the figure of Arian, who is on screen for nearly
    the entire film.

    >From the film's opening, Arian proves to be an ambiguous figure. We
    first see him at home in Beirut, surrounded by maps and travel
    guides (some contemporary, some decades old), arguing with a
    friend over whether or not this trip is in fact a good idea. "In
    the last few years, Istanbul started to move frequently inside me,"
    he says plaintively, "but now, to go or not to go?" "If you're not
    going, all this is useless," his friend fires back. "You, being a
    diaspora Armenian, how can you not go?" But Arian remains unconvinced:
    "there is a wound inside preventing me at every step from deciding to
    go." If there is anything that ultimately sways Arian towards making
    the trip, it is less the entreaties of his friend or a sense of his
    responsibility as a member of the diaspora, and more the desire to see
    the city he has read so much about, for example in the satirist Hagop
    Baronian's book A Tour of the Neighborhoods of Istanbul. Baronian's
    name, along with that of many other Armenian writers, reverberates
    throughout the film; at one point, when Arian is shown a church and
    told of an Armenian charitable organization founded there in 1880,
    he replies, a propos of nothing, that this was right at the time when
    Baronian wrote his book.

    In the event, of course, Arian does go. The first shot of Istanbul is
    not an auspicious one: we see a cemetery, with a road running through
    it. It is raining, and the only figure in the shot is a stray dog that
    has wandered across the road. We will be visiting this cemetery again,
    but for now, the camera simply holds the shot for several seconds
    before fading to black. A title in the subsequent sequence reads,
    simply, "Istanbul," and what follows is Arian's tour, guided by a
    large cast of characters, none of whom are formally introduced. Part
    of what makes the film, on first viewing, a somewhat opaque experience
    has to do with the character of Arian himself; he is affable, given to
    quiet smiles, and clearly a fine listener, but his reactions provide
    little by way of access to the thoughts behind the smiles--until we
    reach the film's stunning conclusion, when Arian's own poetry finally
    gives us access to these thoughts and feelings.

    Still from "I Left My Shoes in Istanbul"

    For the greater part of the film, though, Bezjian leaves us with little
    by way of emotional guidance. We see what Arian sees, largely without
    comment. We watch, for example, as a competing film crew from the
    Turkish state television network films an Armenian woman performing
    a song for a show called "Living Memories"; Bezjian then invites
    in the Turkish correspondent to talk about her own goal in making a
    television special about the "thousand year old story of Armenians
    and Turks." "They are telling a similar story with a different point
    of view," she says, referring to Bezjian and his crew, although both
    have had to stop shooting, since the electricity has gone out. At
    other moments, we simply catch snippets of conversation ("He writes
    in Turkish, but he is not Turkish in his literature..."). We visit an
    Armenian school, where Arian stands awkwardly before a class talking
    about Armenian provincial literature, and are then addressed by a young
    student, speaking directly to the camera and addressing himself to
    "diaspora Armenians," who declares that "Armenianism is not only about
    the genocide." We visit the offices of Agos, the Armenian-Turkish
    newspaper founded by Hrant Dink, and listen to a journalist who
    declares, "Turkish identity is founded atop Armenian martyrs." We
    meet Arian's friend, the writer Sevan Deyirmenjian, and the two men
    lovingly make their way through Deyirmenjian's extensive library of
    Armenian literature while Arian struggles to describe his feelings
    about Istanbul, only able to suggest, "Internally I'm all mixed up."

    In fact, Arian only seems to be at home in literature: wandering
    through bookstores, reciting poems and playing word games, talking
    books with fellow writers, visiting the tombs of his beloved poets.

    One of the most powerful scenes has Arian reading a passage from
    Baronian's Tour of the Neighborhoods of Istanbul while we watch
    passers-by make their way through the busy streets of Taksim. The
    passage describes the very Armenian presence that has now all but been
    destroyed in the modern city, giving an account of a neighborhood
    containing more than five hundred Armenian households. But what
    is striking is that the scene from Baronian is a satirical one: he
    describes the fact that, when approached from the water, what is most
    notable about the neighborhood is the existence of six public urinals
    with their unmistakable odor, and points out that those with noses
    in good working order are thus at a disadvantage. Far from setting
    an elegiac tone, Bezjian and Arian seem to be following the lead
    of Baronian's satirical muse in calling to mind the lost Armenian
    presence in the city.

    When he is not involved in literary pursuits, Arian wears the dutiful
    but slightly weary face of the tourist intent upon checking off
    the necessary stops as set out by his travel itinerary. What is he
    feeling, for example, as he makes his way alone through his dinner
    in a touristy restaurant? He seems to eat and drink with relish,
    but Bejian does not linger over the food with the sort of rhapsodic
    shots that would suggest that some deeper communing is taking place;
    we simply watch a man pausing in his travels to eat dinner, slightly
    mechanically. The overall feeling is one of being adrift, with only
    a few sharp reminders of what has brought our protagonist to this
    city--when, for example, Bezjian cuts suddenly from an official dinner
    featuring a children's chorus singing an anodyne pop song with the
    repeating phrase "you are getting closer to me" to a shot of Hrant
    Dink's tomb, and then to Arian laying flowers before it.

    Still from "I Left My Shoes in Istanbul"

    In its most quiet and opaque moments, I Left My Shoes in Istanbul is
    reminiscent of another documentary about a poet's return to a place
    that had been stripped away from him by history: Simone Bitton's 1997
    film Mahmoud Darwish: As the Land Is the Language. Bezjian's film,
    like Bitton's, takes pains to remind us that its representation of the
    return of the poet is mediated by the filmmaker's own sense of return
    (in Bitton's case, this is further complicated by her own identity as
    an Israeli filmmaker who has chosen to live and work in France). But
    what came back to me most strongly in watching I Left My Shoes in
    Istanbul was a moment from Bitton's that was pointed out to me by my
    colleague Sinan Antoon. We see Darwish being carried along in a car,
    with the landscape passing by outside the window as he talks about his
    poetic connections to Palestine. At a certain point, Darwish pauses
    and looks out the window for several seconds. Finally, he murmurs,
    almost under his breath, "It's beautiful, Palestine." It is a quiet
    but heartbreaking moment, a moment when the poet who has been forced,
    by the heavy hand of history, to turn his homeland into a source of
    metaphor in his poetry is suddenly able to quietly commune with the
    place itself, rather than its metonymic substitution in words.

    Bezjian's film does something similar (though, it must be said,
    somewhat less artfully than Bitton's). Istanbul has, for Arian the
    poet (and for Bezjian the filmmaker), a sort of brute reality that
    is separate from its symbolic meaning. The film represents a form of
    wandering through this reality without any real attempt to either
    aestheticize it or to turn it into a source of metaphor, or indeed
    into a coherent narrative about returning to (never mind reclaiming)
    the lost Bolis, as Istanbul is called by Armenians. If the viewer is
    sympathetic to this form of storytelling, then the experience of the
    film, in the form itself, doubles the sense of puzzlement and loss
    that we feel Arian himself experiencing.

    When the film had its New York premiere recently, in front of a small
    audience at the City University of New York, there was a sense that
    many in the audience did not feel this sort of sympathy for the film's
    approach. Indeed, I was surprised by the strong reactions it provoked.

    Many of these tended towards the negative, voiced either hesitantly
    or in a full-throated manner. Some blasted the film for its aesthetic
    choices: if you wanted to make a beautiful film about the city of
    Istanbul, as one audience member noted, this would seem to be an
    easy thing to do; and yet Bezjian's film cannot be called beautiful,
    in the usual sense of the word. We see the city largely as Arian
    sees it, through a series of quotidian moments, visits to houses and
    offices, and meals both home-cooked and restaurant-procured. Indeed,
    the overall effect is of watching scenes from a business trip.

    Other members of the audience had a different complaint: that the
    film did little to provide a context for viewers unfamiliar with the
    Armenian Genocide, or with subsequent moments in Armenian-Turkish
    history.[1] There is no primer offered at the beginning, no
    voice-over or title sequence providing us with what might seem to be
    the necessary background information. Events are alluded to in the
    course of the film without being explained. For example, towards the
    end of the film, Arian stands before the grave of Sevag Balıkcı,
    an Armenian-Turkish soldier who was killed by a Turkish soldier on
    the remembrance day of the Armenian Genocide in 2011; many have seen
    this as an intentional hate crime, although the killer was acquitted
    and the death ruled accidental. However, none of this information is
    provided in the film. None of the figures with whom Arian converses
    are identified, neither his fellow writers, nor the elderly Turkish
    leftist who talks about the shame Turks feel towards their history,
    nor the elderly Armenian shopkeeper who makes dubious comments about
    the Kurds. This is true even when those onscreen might be familiar
    names for some viewers, such as the photographer Ara Guler--although
    this does not prevent Guler from gleefully stealing his scene with a
    full-throated monologue about the unparalleled status of Istanbul as
    a world city ("Imagine that this soil has been an empire three times.

    Three of them, what do you want? Tell me another land that had three
    empires? What's New York? Not even a shit. Toothpicks stacked on top
    of each other and raised up.")

    It is certainly the case that I Left My Shoes in Istanbul is not a
    film interested in beguiling us with beautiful images of its titular
    city. There is an achievement in this, I think: it provides us with a
    powerful sense of how the city looks and sounds and feels to someone
    like Arian for whom it is a source of deep ambivalence and confusion.

    But it is equally the case, for audiences that might encounter the
    film in the United States (at film festivals, for example), that the
    film refuses to allow for quick and easy forms of connection to or
    empathy with Armenian suffering. The opacity of the film's historical
    and political references leave the viewer on the outside, without
    access to a too-easy sense of sharing the pain being represented by
    Bezjian through the wanderings of Arian. There is something courageous
    in this refusal, and, I would add, something necessary--since, as
    Elizabeth Kolbert pointed out a few years ago, while Americans (and
    especially American politicians) have been quick to embrace from afar
    the Armenian narrative, the genocide committed against native peoples
    in the Americas puts an American audience in an uncomfortably similar
    place as that of the Turks in such a narrative.

    Still from "I Left My Shoes in Istanbul"

    This question of audience in fact comes to the fore in the film's
    conclusion, which provides a bracing shock. Arian sits in a café,
    writing, we think, postcards; but it turns out that we are witnessing
    him transmuting the experience we have been watching into a poem whose
    anger and bitterness (and beauty) caused me to gasp. I won't spoil it,
    as it deserves to be seen and heard, but the question raised by the
    poem (and, through it, by the film), addressed to Istanbul itself, is:
    What sort of a story do you expect me to tell you about the pain that
    you yourself have inflicted upon me? It is the question that faces all
    artistic attempts to represent a traumatic history: Does the artistic
    creation in some way transform or ameliorate the pain of history, or
    is it just a redoubling of that pain--and a source of entertainment
    for those who have inflicted the pain in the first place? And then
    comes the voice of the singer, bringing the film to its end:

    Do not implore me, I will not sing My sadness so enormous >From its
    voice...heartbroken Your soul will be crushed...

    But of course, this refusal to sing, and this warning about the effects
    of a song this sad, comes in the form of a song. Bezjian's film is the
    song that he wishes he did not have to sing; in its stubborn refusal
    to be the film we might prefer it to be, he invites us to partake of,
    and thus acknowledge, the enormity of the sadness, so that perhaps
    different songs might someday follow.

    NOTES

    [1] As Emrah Yildiz reminded me in his reading of this review, part of
    the larger history alluded to by the film, without being explicitly
    addressed, involves questions of mobility in the modern context of
    Armenia-Turkey, questions that can get lost in an exclusive focus upon
    the binary of diaspora/homeland. Among the larger points that underlie
    the film, in addition to the specific historical events of 1915,
    include the stalling of the border normalization process and the (soon
    to be) one hundredth year of official denial of recognition of the
    Armenian Genocide. Although the making of the film preceded the Gezi
    Protests, its emphasis on memorializing the loss of Armenian Istanbul
    (and its many shots of graveyards) echoes the claiming of Gezi Park
    by Armenian citizens of Turkey as the site of a double hijacking and a
    double destruction--since, long before the current attacks on the park,
    the park itself was founded on a destroyed Armenian cemetery, with
    the gravestones becoming the park's marble steps. All this, and more,
    forms the field of allusion for the film, without ever being explicitly
    mentioned or addressed. I am grateful to Emrah for raising all these
    points, which I admit are beyond the bounds of this review (and of
    my capacity to address them with the full complexity they deserve)
    but are at the very heart of the challenge set out by the film.

    This article was originally published in Jadaliyya.

    http://english.ahram.org.eg/NewsContent/5/32/106315/Arts--Culture/Film/Do-Not-Compel-Me-to-Sing.aspx

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