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Hindu Business Line, India
March 21 2014
New old Armenia
by suman tarafdar
A charming mix of Soviet history and Anglophile leanings
As someone who studied Russian, I tend to go to the former Soviet
republics with an air of having an advantage. Well, my practise of
da-da, nyet-nyet will have to wait a while, for Armenia in the years
since independence from the ex-USSR has turned unashamedly Anglophile.
Yes, the capital Yerevan now resembles a cross between Paris and
Moskva. Monumental Soviet-era statues -- Mother Armenia is as tall as
Qutub Minar -- are interspersed with street-side cafes. People, largely
white-skinned with Caucasian noses, work in MNC offices, shop for
Western labels, dine on a variety of global cuisines, drive Mercs and
Hyundais, the occasional Lada notwithstanding, and see the evenings
out with jazz. Given that a third of all Armenians live in Yerevan,
and set the tone for the rest, Sovietly chic it is.
Well, actually, there are more Armenians globally. Many more. Armenia
is one those nations whose past has been far more glorious and
extensive. A country of just about three million citizens today, its
diaspora numbers about eight million. Great traders historically, many
leading ports across continents had Armenian quarters, much like
Chinatowns. In India, look for connections in Kolkata, Bombay and
Surat.
Armenia's location, at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, has meant
centuries of strife, with a current conflict still simmering with
neighbour Azerbaijan. As the first country to declare Christianity the
state religion in the fourth century, in a region where Islam would
later establish its roots, could only mean intensified conflict.
Yet it isn't easy to categorise the nation. For the regular tourist,
Armenia's attractions are plentiful. It's a predominantly mountainous
land, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The centre of the country is
dominated by Sevan, a rambling lake at over 6,000 feet above sea
level. Spectacularly set amidst high mountains, the lake has shrunk in
size due to excess drainage during the Soviet era, but remains a
hugely popular tourist spot with wide beaches and multiple holiday
destinations to the north. The southern shores tend to be forested and
wild and spectacular too.
Armenia is best known for its monasteries. Quite a few are on the
UNESCO heritage list, and it's not difficult to see the reasons. Often
set high up in the mountains, their very architecture makes it evident
just how much of a struggle it would have been to survive here.
Fortress-like, often dating back by more than a millennium, often in
rock faces, often rebuilt after invasions, they house carvings and
text that often document the strife they witnessed. You won't easily
find a nation as proud of its history of the written script, and it
shall be pointed out to you. As will be the huge museum in Yerevan,
the Matenadaran, which any local guide will insist be your first stop
in the country.
Global influences show up in the cuisine too. Religious conflict
apart, the region does share its cuisine, and you could be forgiven
for thinking this cuisine is first cousins with Lebanese or Greek,
Arabic or Turkish fare. Most meals follow the same pattern, salads and
cheese as starters, followed by a soup. The national favourite is
khash, made of -- hold your horses -- cow's feet, but there are
literally dozens more choices easily available. The main dishes could
consist of meats or occasionally fish, with sides of vegetables.
Aubergines and pumpkins rule, much like in Italy or Lebanon, but here
the mixes with other ingredients are quite different, especially the
way these are combined with lentils, white beans, lemon juice, olive
oil, herbs and a wide variety of nuts. Walnuts, almonds, pine nuts and
hazelnuts are most common, and used crushed and whole, roasted, fried,
salted, sweetened... Potatoes can be deep fried or baked or grilled or
roasted, and are usually not combined with anything else.
Of course lavash, huge paper thin breads prepared in clay ovens, and
other breads, are ever present. Interestingly, dry lavash is sprinkled
with water to make it soft! There's really little to match a fresh
warm lavash straight out of the oven though. You have to tear it with
your hands, roti style, though you can also roll it or stuff it or
crush it in soup. Dessert comes in the shape of brandy! Armenia is
famous for its brandy -- called konyak, and Ararat and Dvin are the
most famous brands. Pomegranates are the unofficial top fruit, though
walnuts, apricots, pears, almonds, quinces, melons, plums, oranges,
grapes and many more compete for the runner-up slot.
Ararat, yes the anchor for Noah's legendary ark, is actually a name
you are most likely to encounter in Armenia. The actual mountain looms
over Yerevan, and just about every product will have a brand named
after Armenia's favourite peak, not to forget an entire province, and
an imprint on the national flag. The only catch -- Ararat is now part
of Turkey, which has sided with Armenia's rival nation Azerbaijan
(think Indo-Pak relations). Turkey in fact complained to the UN about
Ararat being on the national flag of Armenia as it wasn't even in that
country, only to be told that they, Turkey, had the moon on theirs,
and surely they could not lay exclusive claims to it.
Well, for a small country, nationalism is often at the forefront of a
nation rediscovering its place in the world. Yet it makes the tourist
feel welcome in partaking of that process.
(suman tarafdar is a Delhi-based business and travel writer)
http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/blink/new-old-armenia/article5810336.ece
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress
March 21 2014
New old Armenia
by suman tarafdar
A charming mix of Soviet history and Anglophile leanings
As someone who studied Russian, I tend to go to the former Soviet
republics with an air of having an advantage. Well, my practise of
da-da, nyet-nyet will have to wait a while, for Armenia in the years
since independence from the ex-USSR has turned unashamedly Anglophile.
Yes, the capital Yerevan now resembles a cross between Paris and
Moskva. Monumental Soviet-era statues -- Mother Armenia is as tall as
Qutub Minar -- are interspersed with street-side cafes. People, largely
white-skinned with Caucasian noses, work in MNC offices, shop for
Western labels, dine on a variety of global cuisines, drive Mercs and
Hyundais, the occasional Lada notwithstanding, and see the evenings
out with jazz. Given that a third of all Armenians live in Yerevan,
and set the tone for the rest, Sovietly chic it is.
Well, actually, there are more Armenians globally. Many more. Armenia
is one those nations whose past has been far more glorious and
extensive. A country of just about three million citizens today, its
diaspora numbers about eight million. Great traders historically, many
leading ports across continents had Armenian quarters, much like
Chinatowns. In India, look for connections in Kolkata, Bombay and
Surat.
Armenia's location, at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, has meant
centuries of strife, with a current conflict still simmering with
neighbour Azerbaijan. As the first country to declare Christianity the
state religion in the fourth century, in a region where Islam would
later establish its roots, could only mean intensified conflict.
Yet it isn't easy to categorise the nation. For the regular tourist,
Armenia's attractions are plentiful. It's a predominantly mountainous
land, surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The centre of the country is
dominated by Sevan, a rambling lake at over 6,000 feet above sea
level. Spectacularly set amidst high mountains, the lake has shrunk in
size due to excess drainage during the Soviet era, but remains a
hugely popular tourist spot with wide beaches and multiple holiday
destinations to the north. The southern shores tend to be forested and
wild and spectacular too.
Armenia is best known for its monasteries. Quite a few are on the
UNESCO heritage list, and it's not difficult to see the reasons. Often
set high up in the mountains, their very architecture makes it evident
just how much of a struggle it would have been to survive here.
Fortress-like, often dating back by more than a millennium, often in
rock faces, often rebuilt after invasions, they house carvings and
text that often document the strife they witnessed. You won't easily
find a nation as proud of its history of the written script, and it
shall be pointed out to you. As will be the huge museum in Yerevan,
the Matenadaran, which any local guide will insist be your first stop
in the country.
Global influences show up in the cuisine too. Religious conflict
apart, the region does share its cuisine, and you could be forgiven
for thinking this cuisine is first cousins with Lebanese or Greek,
Arabic or Turkish fare. Most meals follow the same pattern, salads and
cheese as starters, followed by a soup. The national favourite is
khash, made of -- hold your horses -- cow's feet, but there are
literally dozens more choices easily available. The main dishes could
consist of meats or occasionally fish, with sides of vegetables.
Aubergines and pumpkins rule, much like in Italy or Lebanon, but here
the mixes with other ingredients are quite different, especially the
way these are combined with lentils, white beans, lemon juice, olive
oil, herbs and a wide variety of nuts. Walnuts, almonds, pine nuts and
hazelnuts are most common, and used crushed and whole, roasted, fried,
salted, sweetened... Potatoes can be deep fried or baked or grilled or
roasted, and are usually not combined with anything else.
Of course lavash, huge paper thin breads prepared in clay ovens, and
other breads, are ever present. Interestingly, dry lavash is sprinkled
with water to make it soft! There's really little to match a fresh
warm lavash straight out of the oven though. You have to tear it with
your hands, roti style, though you can also roll it or stuff it or
crush it in soup. Dessert comes in the shape of brandy! Armenia is
famous for its brandy -- called konyak, and Ararat and Dvin are the
most famous brands. Pomegranates are the unofficial top fruit, though
walnuts, apricots, pears, almonds, quinces, melons, plums, oranges,
grapes and many more compete for the runner-up slot.
Ararat, yes the anchor for Noah's legendary ark, is actually a name
you are most likely to encounter in Armenia. The actual mountain looms
over Yerevan, and just about every product will have a brand named
after Armenia's favourite peak, not to forget an entire province, and
an imprint on the national flag. The only catch -- Ararat is now part
of Turkey, which has sided with Armenia's rival nation Azerbaijan
(think Indo-Pak relations). Turkey in fact complained to the UN about
Ararat being on the national flag of Armenia as it wasn't even in that
country, only to be told that they, Turkey, had the moon on theirs,
and surely they could not lay exclusive claims to it.
Well, for a small country, nationalism is often at the forefront of a
nation rediscovering its place in the world. Yet it makes the tourist
feel welcome in partaking of that process.
(suman tarafdar is a Delhi-based business and travel writer)
http://www.thehindubusinessline.com/features/blink/new-old-armenia/article5810336.ece
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress