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'Rising Ground', By Philip Marsden

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  • 'Rising Ground', By Philip Marsden

    'RISING GROUND', BY PHILIP MARSDEN

    http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/992ef6f2-59eb-11e4-8771-00144feab7de.html#ixzz3H6CJxRTi

    October 24, 2014 4:59 pm

    Review by William Taylor

    ornwall has its own flag as well as its own language, customs and
    folklore. No doubt one day it will have its own parliament. And in
    the meantime, in Philip Marsden, it has its own itinerant philosopher,
    heir to the roving antiquaries of old.

    It has certainly had a few of these over the years. With a copy of
    Geoffrey of Monmouth's Life of Merlin in their knapsack, successive
    individuals have gone in search of the meaning of the Neolithic stone
    circles on Bodmin Moor and the Arthurian traditions of Tintagel,
    as well as those granite tors and tombs scattered across the far
    western tip of this island finger. It was a left to a group of
    Victorian clergy, some of whom clearly had a bit too much time on
    their hands, to consolidate a range of theories about the Druidic
    origins of such monuments.

    All these characters ornament Rising Ground, but as an interpreter
    of ritual landscape Marsden himself remains cheerfully agnostic. Of
    Glastonbury Tor he writes, "maybe it really is the energy lines,
    those hidden channels of power that converge at this place to give
    it its aura and generate its miracles. Or maybe it's simply the shape
    of the hill."

    Marsden himself is not a native of Cornwall (he grew up in Somerset)
    but he was a frequent visitor from early childhood. In The Bronski
    House (1997) he describes crossing the river Tamar into Cornwall
    over an old stone bridge and relishing that feeling of passing into
    an unfamiliar place: abroad.

    That continuing search for "abroad" took him to Ethiopia, Armenia
    and Russia (as his back catalogue attests) but he has more recently
    found himself back in Cornwall again and writing within the parameters
    provided by a couple of days' hike. In Rising Ground he wonders whether
    all along his real interest has been in the shaping importance of
    place and what he calls "the capacity of places to create mythologies
    around them".

    This train of thought is triggered by a move upriver, like a returning
    salmon or bass, into a new home in the middle of what sounds to me
    like absolutely nowhere. As his family settles in, Marsden sets out on
    a parallel journey to search for this spirit of place, walking west
    across the county towards that dangerous cape where land disappears
    into sea.

    Others who have travelled this path have got lost with their esoteric
    theories in the moors, trying, like George Eliot's Casaubon, to
    search out the key to these mythologies. This number includes the
    Tudor topographer John Leland who ends up, burnt out and exhausted,
    with an incomplete manuscript; and the 20th-century chronicler John
    Blight, who finishes his days in a Penzance asylum. "Certain subjects
    have the capacity to swallow you whole," Marsden warns, "and one of
    these is the interpretation of ancient monuments."

    However, it is Marsden's close attention to the immediacy of his
    experience - the shape of the particular hill, the sound of the
    curlew's cry in the early hours, the feel of heather crunching beneath
    his feet - that keeps him, and us, interested in this journey.

    And when his own ideas get too speculative he typically takes a scythe
    to a thicket in his garden or pulls on his walking boots and heads for
    the hills. By letting go of the attempt to find an epic resolution to
    the quandaries he has set himself, he settles for occasional moments
    of lyric apprehension. His nowhere momentarily becomes a somewhere.

    And as it does, Marsden vividly shows us the importance of
    particularity as a doorway into inhabiting our deepest understanding
    of what it means to be a human being walking this earth.

    If "crossing the Tiber" (after the river that separates the Vatican
    City from the rest of classical Rome) refers colloquially to the act
    of converting to Catholicism, then "crossing the Tamar" could equally
    well refer to the moment of being seized by a fresh sense of the
    holiness of landscape. Marsden is our apostle here, though a modest
    one, more poet than preacher, as he invites us to join him in gazing
    upon a succession of Cornish wonders. And not a dowsing rod in sight.

    Rising Ground: A Search for the Spirit of Place, by Philip Marsden,
    Granta, RRPĀ£20, 368 pages

    William Taylor is a clergyman in the London Borough of Hackney and
    author of 'This Bright Field: A Travel Book in One Place' (Methuen)

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