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Syria Conflict: A Century After The 'Genocide', Armenians Flee War A

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  • Syria Conflict: A Century After The 'Genocide', Armenians Flee War A

    SYRIA CONFLICT: A CENTURY AFTER THE 'GENOCIDE', ARMENIANS FLEE WAR AND RETURN TO LAND OF THEIR ANCESTORS

    Thousands of refugees with Armenian roots are returning, hoping
    to start a new life in the shadow of Mount Ararat. 100 years after
    the Armenian 'genocide', Andrew Connelly, in, speaks to some of the
    diaspora who have come home

    ANDREW CONNELLY

    YEREVAN

    Monday 13 April 2015

    In his flat on the outskirts of the Armenian capital, Yerevan, Hovig
    Ashjian squints through a microscope as he plucks a minuscule shard
    of diamond and gently sets it into a silver ring. Originally from
    Aleppo, the jeweller moved to Armenia when fighting between militants
    and government forces intensified.

    "I came here with nothing," he recalled. "One day I saw the tanks
    outside my home and people shouting so I said to my wife: 'Come on,
    better run'."

    They raced to the airport in a drive that was normally 25 minutes
    but took three hours as they navigated the myriad roadblocks. They
    were just in time to catch what proved to be the last direct plane
    from Aleppo to Yerevan.

    Mr Ashjian is one of around 15,000 Syrians of Armenian descent the
    United Nations estimates have sought refuge in the country since the
    Syrian conflict erupted in 2011.

    At the end of next week, on 24 April, Armenia - a landlocked former
    Soviet nation of three million in the South Caucasus region bordering
    Iran and Turkey - will commemorate the 100th anniversary of the 1915
    massacres by the Ottoman Empire of Armenians living in what is now
    eastern Turkey. Armenia and some other countries consider those events,
    during the First World War, a genocide that led to the deaths of 1.5
    million of their people, although Turkey denies this and disputes the
    numbers killed. Those not slaughtered escaped, or were marched into
    the deserts and beyond, and survivors built sizeable communities in
    Syria, Lebanon and across the Middle East.

    Yerevan, with a population of one million, is often called "the Pink
    city" due to the abundance of rose-coloured volcanic rock used in many
    of its buildings, adding a flash of colour to the sea of ramshackle
    Soviet-era apartment blocks.

    The crowning glory of the city's skyline is the snowy peaks of Mount
    Ararat, believed by Christians to be the final resting place of
    Noah's Ark. Its name is omnipresent in Armenia, from football teams
    to cigarette brands and brandy companies, and is a rallying cry to
    the global diaspora - made all the more potent by the fact that it
    is located just inside Turkey, whose border with Armenia has been
    closed for three decades.

    As Mr Ashjian speaks, jets can be heard sporadically whooshing
    overhead. Russia maintains 3,000 troops at a base in Armenia's second
    city, Gyumri, and also provides Armenia's air defences. "It's like
    being back in Syria. Sometimes we wonder if they are coming for us!"

    says Mr Ashjian with a wry smile. The planes used by the Syrian
    regime of Bashar al-Assad, sometimes to bomb its people, are mostly
    Russian built.

    Around 15,000 Syrians of Armenian descent are estimated to have sought
    refuge in the Armenia since the Syrian conflict erupted in 2011(EPA)

    Not that everything in Armenia is happy for the refugees from Syria who
    have arrived. Finding work is difficult in a country with unemployment
    at 21 per cent; the average wage is just £200 a month.

    Even aside from the cultural contrasts, there are language problems
    for the new arrivals: many diaspora communities speak Western Armenian,
    a dialect spoken by their ancestors in the Ottoman Empire.

    Although it is fundamentally the same language deep down, it is as
    if Britons were welcoming visitors from Shakespearean England.

    For Mr Ashjian, however, it is a cautious but hopeful beginning of a
    new chapter in his family's life. "It's very different because we are
    in our land, the land of our ancestors," he said. "We drew pictures
    of Mount Ararat in school but now we can see it with our eyes. Yes,
    now it is in Turkey, but it's a more beautiful view from our side."

    Armenians say up to 1.5 million of their forebears were killed in a
    1915-16 genocide by Turkey's former Ottoman Empire; Turkey has the
    figure at 500,000 (AFP/Getty)

    Beneath Yerevan's stylish Northern Avenue, in a chilly converted
    garage of block of flats mainly populated by Syrian-Armenians,
    Ani Balkhian runs the Aleppo NGO. Founded by women from the city,
    it assists refugees with housing, employment, children's education
    and language classes. They keep regular contact with Armenians still
    living precariously in Syria.

    Ms Balkhian and her colleagues recently raised funds for families
    in Kessab, an ethnic Armenian town in north-western Syria that was
    attacked by al-Qaeda-affiliated jihadists in March last year.

    Villagers were kidnapped, churches set alight and cemeteries
    desecrated. Kessab was previously the scene of a massacre by Ottoman
    forces in 1915 and there is a widespread view amongst Armenians that
    last year's incursion had the assistance, if not direct involvement,
    of Turkish authorities - claims vigorously denied by Turkey.

    "Armenians were happy in Syria," she said. "Now everything has
    changed. The culture of killing is inside the people now, so how can
    you go back, how can you send your children there? We used to dream
    that someday we would go to our homeland of Armenia, but then we were
    forced to come here. It's like a second genocide for us."

    Like all those who fled, Ms Balkhian had to leave most possessions
    behind. Her home and her family's textile factories in rebel-controlled
    areas were looted, she said, and belongings she tried to ship out have
    been stuck at the Syrian port of Tartus for six months. One item she
    managed to rescue and transport, a bookcase of carved walnut wood,
    dominates her office yet stands bereft of books - emblematic of her
    vanished life back in Syria.

    Armenian Prime Minister Hovik Abrahamyan 'meets the Kardashians',
    who are Armenian, in Yerevan this month (AP)

    Even so, refugees have begun to transform Yerevan's cultural life. Its
    cuisine has been infused with lamajoun (Arabic-style flatbread pizza),
    and sweet-smelling smoke clouds around pavement cafes as Yerevanites
    have taken to smoking nargile water pipes. On a Saturday night in
    an underground cocktail bar, Aleppo-born singer Rena Derkhorenian
    and her all-Syrian band Shiver blast out jazz and soul rhythms to a
    writhing crowd.

    Ms Derkhorenian thinks the displacement is a chance to build something
    new. "Syrian-Armenians and the locals still need to integrate more
    but this was our chance to come here and make something of this
    land called Armenia," she said. "A hundred years have passed and now
    we need to think differently. This is the time to start something,
    especially when we have all the diaspora coming. We need to make room
    for each other... and we need to stay."

    http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/middle-east/syria-conflict-a-century-after-the-genocide-armenians-flee-war-and-return-to-land-of-their-ancestors-10173968.html

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