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FOOD DETECTIVE: AT THE CROSSROADS OF ARMENIAN CUISINE
DAVID HAMMOND
Chicago Sun-Times
http://www.suntimes.com/lifestyles/food/8930740-423/food-detective-at-the-crossroads-of-armenian-cuisine.html
Dec 6 2011
IL
'This tastes a lot like Greek food," my wife murmured between
mouthfuls.
We were sitting in a candlelit booth at Sayat Nova, 157 E. Ohio.
Downtown Chicago's only Armenian restaurant has been serving up
chickpea dip, stuffed grape leaves and kebabs since 1968.
Similarities between the cuisines of Greece and the former Armenian
Soviet Socialist Republic are understandable. In fact, ingredients
for Armenian recipes can be found all across Eastern Europe and
Western Asia.
Laura Kelley, author of The Silk Road Gourmet, says the food of
Armenia "goes way beyond kebabs" in large part because the country
is strategically located along the early Afro-Eurasian trading network.
"Because Armenia is between the Caspian and Black seas," Kelley says,
"people were always coming and going; it was a huge crossroads of
East and West. Anyone coming into Europe along the Silk Road had to
do business with Armenia. So, there are a lot of foreign elements in
what we call Armenian cuisine."
One recurring theme in Armenian food is the savory conjunction of
fruit and meat.
"We don't usually do that in the United States, where fruit is often
only for dessert," says Kelley.
Armenia was the first nation to declare Christianity its state
religion. With many fast days on the calendar, there are lots of
fruits, vegetables and fish in Armenian cooking. Though pork was
avoided by early Christians, Kelley says pig is eaten in Armenia
(as it is at Sayat Nova) without shame these days.
Kelley's book includes an Armenian recipe for Skewered Pork with
Pomegranate. Rich meat and sweet-sour fruit mesh beautifully. As an
accompaniment, we prepared pilaf, common in Armenian, Turkish and
Persian cuisines.
"Armenia was ruled by others for centuries. We take such pride in
our national cuisines, but when you scratch the surface, you find an
incredible amalgam," Kelley says.
To sample Armenian food, check out the Taste of Armenia at St. James
Armenian Church in Evanston; it's held every August.
If you can't wait, there's Siunik Armenian Grill, which recently
opened at 1707 Chestnut Ave. in Glenview, effectively doubling the
number of Armenian restaurants in the Chicago area.
David Hammond is an Oak Park writer and contributor to WBEZ (91.5 FM)
and LTHForum.com.
DAVID HAMMOND
Chicago Sun-Times
http://www.suntimes.com/lifestyles/food/8930740-423/food-detective-at-the-crossroads-of-armenian-cuisine.html
Dec 6 2011
IL
'This tastes a lot like Greek food," my wife murmured between
mouthfuls.
We were sitting in a candlelit booth at Sayat Nova, 157 E. Ohio.
Downtown Chicago's only Armenian restaurant has been serving up
chickpea dip, stuffed grape leaves and kebabs since 1968.
Similarities between the cuisines of Greece and the former Armenian
Soviet Socialist Republic are understandable. In fact, ingredients
for Armenian recipes can be found all across Eastern Europe and
Western Asia.
Laura Kelley, author of The Silk Road Gourmet, says the food of
Armenia "goes way beyond kebabs" in large part because the country
is strategically located along the early Afro-Eurasian trading network.
"Because Armenia is between the Caspian and Black seas," Kelley says,
"people were always coming and going; it was a huge crossroads of
East and West. Anyone coming into Europe along the Silk Road had to
do business with Armenia. So, there are a lot of foreign elements in
what we call Armenian cuisine."
One recurring theme in Armenian food is the savory conjunction of
fruit and meat.
"We don't usually do that in the United States, where fruit is often
only for dessert," says Kelley.
Armenia was the first nation to declare Christianity its state
religion. With many fast days on the calendar, there are lots of
fruits, vegetables and fish in Armenian cooking. Though pork was
avoided by early Christians, Kelley says pig is eaten in Armenia
(as it is at Sayat Nova) without shame these days.
Kelley's book includes an Armenian recipe for Skewered Pork with
Pomegranate. Rich meat and sweet-sour fruit mesh beautifully. As an
accompaniment, we prepared pilaf, common in Armenian, Turkish and
Persian cuisines.
"Armenia was ruled by others for centuries. We take such pride in
our national cuisines, but when you scratch the surface, you find an
incredible amalgam," Kelley says.
To sample Armenian food, check out the Taste of Armenia at St. James
Armenian Church in Evanston; it's held every August.
If you can't wait, there's Siunik Armenian Grill, which recently
opened at 1707 Chestnut Ave. in Glenview, effectively doubling the
number of Armenian restaurants in the Chicago area.
David Hammond is an Oak Park writer and contributor to WBEZ (91.5 FM)
and LTHForum.com.