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  • Bohjalian: Forrest Gump Goes To Beirut

    BOHJALIAN: FORREST GUMP GOES TO BEIRUT
    Posted by Chris Bohjalian

    http://www.armenianweekly.com/2012/12/17/bohjalian-forrest-gump-goes-to-beirut/
    December 17, 2012

    We all have a little Forrest Gump in us. A bit of Leonard Zelig.

    We've all had those moments when, suddenly, we are not merely witnesses
    to an instant fraught with meaning, but we are participants in the
    scene. We see ourselves both in the minute and with a cinematic
    distance: Camera pulls back wide to reveal the majesty of the
    spectacle, the sheer grandeur. And there, much to our surprise,
    we see ourselves. We are at once in the moment, and an observer of it.

    Two other students had already finished the book by the time I arrived
    and wanted to discuss the ending with me with all the passion of
    readers in Los Angeles or Milwaukee or Watertown.

    I had one of those experiences when I was in Beirut in December. I
    was in Lebanon as a guest of Hamazkayin and the Vahe Setian Publishing
    House. I had spent a week visiting universities and schools, and now I
    was in the Catholicosate in Antelias, meeting with His Holiness Aram I,
    before he and a pair of scholars were going to discuss my most recent
    novel, The Sandcastle Girls, in front of a packed house of roughly 300
    people. After the two of us had talked for 45 minutes in his office,
    we were summoned to Gulbenkian Hall, and here is where I went from
    Armenian-American novelist to Zelig or Gump. I started to walk toward
    the hall, but His Holiness put his hand on my shoulder and guided me
    into the line of Reverent Fathers beside him. Fourteen men in black
    cassocks and ceremonial vestments and...me. And thus, I walked into
    Gulbenkian beside Aram I, in a formal procession of Armenian priests.

    It wasn't the most terrifying moment of my professional life, but it
    was up there. It was also, however, among the most moving.

    The reality is that my visit to the Lebanese-Armenian community-my
    second in 2012-was rich in memories like that.

    There was my sobering conversation with the principal of one of the
    Armenian high schools where I spoke. I asked him how the students
    who had arrived from the cataclysm that has engulfed Aleppo were doing.

    "They are accustomed to studying physics and chemistry in Arabic,"
    he answered. "We teach those subjects here in French, so that has
    been a struggle for them." I told him I had meant, how are they doing
    emotionally? How are they coping with the trauma of upheaval and civil
    war? He nodded gravely and said, "The ones who have both of their
    parents with them are doing better than those whose fathers are still
    in Aleppo, or whose mothers and fathers are both still in Aleppo."

    There was my visit to the Levon and Sofia Hagopian Armenian
    College-another high school, actually-in Bourj Hammoud. Friends of
    mine in the United States had told me that even though the Armenian
    students in Beirut might speak English, it was unlikely they would
    understand the nuances of my presentation. Not true. The very first
    question? A 16-year-old girl asked me, "Has writing this novel been
    healing for you personally? Emotionally?" Two other students had
    already finished the book by the time I arrived and wanted to discuss
    the ending with me with all the passion of readers in Los Angeles or
    Milwaukee or Watertown.

    There was my afternoon in Anjar with the Lebanese Armenian Heritage
    Club from the American University of Beirut (AUB). I had spoken at
    AUB on a Friday night and was planning on making the second pilgrimage
    of my life to Anjar on Sunday. Franz Werfel's The Forty Days of Musa
    Dagh is among my very favorite novels, and so I wanted to return to
    the village where the descendants of the Musa Dagh resistance now live.

    (For those unfamiliar with the story, in July 1915, roughly 4,000
    Armenians from the 6 villages on the mountain refused to be resettled,
    knowing that "resettlement" was a euphemism for "extermination." From
    atop Musa Dagh they held off the Turkish army for 53 days, before they
    were rescued by a part of the French fleet, which saw their red cross
    distress flag dangling off the Mediterranean Sea side of the cliff.)
    Three of the AUB students offered to join me, including Razmig
    Boyadjian, the great-grandson of one of the martyrs of the mountain.

    He showed me his great-grandfather's name on a replica of the canister
    that once held the man's ashes. Meanwhile, moments before I spoke to
    some of the citizens of Anjar, we heard shelling, as Syrian opposition
    forces made a foray into the Bekaa Valley, trying-and failing-to
    steal Lebanese Army weapons.

    And orchestrating my week was Hagop Havatian of Hamazkayin, arguably
    the hardest-working man in Beirut. Thanks to him, I was also able
    to bring the story of The Sandcastle Girls and the realities of
    the Armenian Genocide onto Arabic television and Arabic newspapers,
    reminding the country of why the Armenian minority today is such an
    important cultural and economic part of modern Lebanon.

    The culmination of the trip, of course, was my visit to the cathedral
    and the Catholicosate in Antelias. The reality is that as a novelist,
    I meet a lot of extraordinary people. Most novelists do. But my
    audience with Aram I and the presentation in Gulbenkian Hall was,
    for me personally, a night for the ages.

    I am not easily awed, but I was nervous. There are a variety of reasons
    for this, some grounded in the man's profoundly important stature
    in the church, and others in the chasm-like gaps in my own religious
    training. Although my Armenian grandparents went to an Armenian church,
    my parents usually attended Episcopal churches in the New York City
    suburbs. Today I live next door (literally, right next door) to a
    Baptist church in Vermont, and have gone there happily for a quarter
    century. Nevertheless, my religious training has a long history
    of eccentricity. Exhibit A? Most of my training for confirmation
    when I was a 12-year-old at Trinity Episcopal Church in Stamford,
    Conn., revolved around Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber's rock opera,
    "Jesus Christ Superstar." To this day, I still know an embarrassing
    amount of the libretto.

    In any case, the idea that I was going to meet His Holiness certainly
    got my attention when I received the invitation back in September. I
    learned key phrases in Armenian and I drove my friend Khatchig
    Mouradian, the editor of this newspaper, a little crazy with my
    obsessive-compulsive insistence on practicing precisely how much I
    should bow when I met Aram I. And I asked Hagop Havatian to share
    with me which of His Holiness's books I should read prior to our
    meeting. I did considerably more homework than before I had been
    confirmed three and a half decades earlier.

    And yet, in hindsight, none of it was necessary. I never had to impress
    anyone because, pure and simple, everyone was so supportive of my
    visit. Everyone was appreciative of my attempt with The Sandcastle
    Girls to bring the story of the Armenian Genocide to readers who could
    not find Aleppo or Der-el-Zor-or even the Armenian nation-on a map. I
    remember sitting in Gulbenkian Hall, almost overwhelmed with gratitude,
    as Arda Ekmekji of Haigazian University was discussing where two of
    my favorite characters, Nevart and Hatoun, fit into the story and
    what their journeys in 1915 mean to all of us today.

    Was this, too, a Forrest Gump-esque moment? Not at all. I had never
    in my life felt more like I belonged.

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