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Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story And Photos By Matthew Karanian

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  • Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story And Photos By Matthew Karanian

    TIGRANAKERT, ARTSAKH: STORY AND PHOTOS BY MATTHEW KARANIAN

    [ Part 2.2: "Attached Text" ]

    Posted on July 25, 2013 byMatthew KaranianinBooks &
    Art,Featured,Headline// 0 Comments

    Layer by layer, the excavated ruins of one of the ancient Armenian
    cities of Tigranakert is revealing evidence of a once-thriving Armenian
    settlement that dates back to before the time of Christ.

    1x1.trans Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story and Photos by Matthew Karanian

    The ruins of Tigranakert of Artsakh (foreground) and the recently
    reconstructed castle. Photo © 2013 Matthew Karanian

    This Tigranakert is located in Artsakh, and the uncovering of precious
    Armenian artifacts,khatchkars, and foundation stones here has fueled
    excitement about both the cultural and political significance of
    the site.

    This isn't the Tigranakert that you studied in Armenian school.

    The fabled Tigranakert that most Armenians are familiar with is the
    one that's trapped inside the borders of modern Turkey, in historic
    Western Armenia.

    The unheralded Tigranakert of Artsakh is a world away, and just a
    short drive from Karabagh's capital and largest town, Stepanakert.

    Unlike its more famous counterpart in historic Armenia, this
    Tigranakert had become largely forgotten until about a decade ago.

    The site is located in the Askeran region and, as with most places
    in Artsakh, the lands nearby were the scene of heavy fighting during
    Karabagh's war of independence.

    1x1.trans Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story and Photos by Matthew Karanian

    The medieval castle of Tigranakert, in Artsakh. The ancient Armenian
    ruins of Tigranakert, located just beyond the castle, date back to
    the first century BC. Photo © 2013 Matthew Karanian

    A handful of rusted tanks still litter the nearby hills. Aghdam,
    a now-abandoned community that had been used by the enemy as a base
    from which to attack Armenian towns and villages, lies a short distance
    away, opposite a narrow highway.

    The international community identifies the sovereignty of the region as
    disputed. Azerbaijan, which had laid siege to the region until shortly
    after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and which didn't permit
    excavations here during the Soviet era, claims the site for itself.

    This territorial dispute lends added significance to the antiquity
    of the Armenian settlement, since its existence is an overwhelming
    counterweight to the Azeri contention that Armenians are new arrivals
    to the region.

    1x1.trans Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story and Photos by Matthew Karanian

    The excavated ruins of Tigranakert lie at the base of the mountaintop
    monastery of Vankasar, in the Askeran region of Artsakh. Photo © 2013
    Matthew Karanian

    The ruins of Artsakh's Tigranakert are evident today to any visitor.

    But the archaeologist Hamlet Petrosyan, Ph.D., recalls the time, not
    so long ago, when their existence was little more than a hypothesis.

    Petrosyan is the head of the department of cultural studies at Yerevan
    State University, and the director of the Archaeological Expedition of
    Artsakh. His studies of ancient Armenian history, and of archaeology,
    had led him to believe that there might be significant ruins in
    this area north of Askeran, and at the base of the mountain where
    the Armenian church Vankasar stands. He believed the site might be
    one of the lost Tigranakerts. Others weren't so sure. And prior to
    Karabagh's independence, scant resources were committed to finding out.

    Tigranakert is named for Tigran the Great, a leader revered in Armenian
    history for presiding over Armenia's greatest expansion in ancient
    time, from 95-55 BC. In Tigran's honor, at least four settlements are
    known to have been built and named for him. This shouldn't surprise
    anyone. He was, after all, Great.

    1x1.trans Tigranakert, Artsakh: Story and Photos by Matthew Karanian

    The mountaintop monastery of Vankasar stands vigil high above the
    ruins of Tigranakert, in the Askeran region of Artsakh. The ruins of
    the Tigranakert of Artsakh date back to the first century BC. Photo
    © 2013 Matthew Karanian

    The possibility of a Tigranakert in Artsakh intrigued many, including
    Petrosyan. I met with Petrosyan in Artsakh while I was researching
    and writing my book, Armenia and Karabakh: The Stone Garden Travel
    Guide. He walked the site with me and explained how, years earlier,
    he had seen what he believed were remnants of walls.

    Even as we hiked amid the ruins and the remnants of the fortress walls,
    Petrosyan was scanning the fields for further hints that something
    else man-made might lay beneath the soil. He saw large depressions
    in the topography that didn't appear to be natural. "We can suppose
    that here we will find something," he told me, while pointing to a
    field that appeared to be just a field-except for a modest depression
    that might hide the long-buried foundations of civic buildings.

    Petrosyan and his team of archaeologists from the Armenian Academy
    of Sciences Institute of Archaeology began excavating the site in 2005.

    They discovered that this Tigranakert had a citadel, a central business
    district, churches, suburbs, and cemeteries.

    Petrosyan and I walked amid the ruins of one of the Armenian churches
    that he had uncovered. The church had been built in the 5th century,
    but by the 18th century its stones had been used as a quarry for
    materials for the nearby castle. All that remains of the church
    structure today is its massive foundation, now exposed, at several
    feet below ground level.

    The church foundation reveals a structure that was 29 meters long-one
    of the largest churches of the Caucasus from this era.

    Excavations have revealed Armenian inscriptions on the church, as
    well as a primitive khatchkars (Armenian stone cross).

    The city was built entirely from the local white limestone,
    and Petrosyan's research suggests that it was occupied until the
    14th century. He and his team of archaeologists also determined that
    the site was founded in the first century B.C.

    The excavation of the site thus presents evidence of a continuous
    Armenian civilization here for more than 2,000 years.

    In 2008, the area was designated the Tigranakert Historical-Cultural
    Reserve by the government of Karabagh. Vast areas of the 2,136 hectare
    site remain unexcavated, however, because of limited funding for
    the project.

    A medieval-style castle is located within the fortified area of
    Tigranakert, and was restored several years ago. Today this castle
    is the most prominent part of Tigranakert, and houses the Tigranakert
    Museum of Archaeology.

    To be sure, the most famous Tigranakert is the one that's located
    in historic Western Armenia. But the 2,000-year-old Tigranakert of
    Artsakh might just prove to be more significant to the future of
    the Armenians, since it demonstrates their ancient and continuous
    history here. And if you are already traveling in Yerevan this year,
    then the Tigranakert that you'll want to add to your itinerary is
    the one that's in nearby Artsakh.

    About the Museum

    The State Archaeological Museum of Tigranakert is located within the
    walls of the castle (open from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m. daily). To learn
    more, visit www.tigranakert.am. Check at the museum for information
    about walking the site and viewing the ruins.

    To get there, travel about 35 kilometers north of Stepanakert on the
    road that leads past Aghdam. The castle of Tigranakert is on the west
    (left) side of the highway. Tigranakert is best visited as a half-day
    excursion from either Stepanakert or Shushi, which are the two towns
    that have the best selection of tourist-class hotels and which draw
    most of Artsakh's overnight visitors.

    'Stone Garden Travel Guide'

    Armenia and Karabakh: The Stone Garden Travel Guide (Stone Garden
    Productions, $24.95) was recently featured in the Los Angeles Times,
    which calls the book "a fresh view on ancient Armenia." This 320-page
    guide includes essays on nature and conservation, archaeology,
    Armenian history, and the cultural sites of Armenia and Artsakh,
    as well as comprehensive travel information.

    The book is the winner of three national book awards, including an
    award for Best Travel Guide by the Independent Publishers Association,
    and is available for purchase in Watertown, Mass., from the Armenian
    Library and Museum of America (ALMA).

     

    Matthew Karanian practices law in Pasadena, Calif. He is the
    author of Armenia and Karabakh: The Stone Garden Travel Guide, the
    best-selling English-language guide to Armenia. The third edition of
    this book was published this year. 

    http://www.armenianweekly.com/2013/07/25/tigranakert-artsakh-story-and-photo
    s-by-matthew-karanian/

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