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Ara Guler: Capturing Turkey's unseen corners in new exhibit at Sackl

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  • Ara Guler: Capturing Turkey's unseen corners in new exhibit at Sackl

    http://www.washingtonpost.com/entertainment/museums/ara-guler-capturing-turkeys-unseen-corners-in-new-exhibit-at-sackler-gallery/2014/01/08/1dcc37a0-6bed-11e3-a523-fe73f0ff6b8d_story.html

    Ara Guler: Capturing Turkey's unseen corners in new exhibit at Sackler Gallery
    By Vanessa H. Larson
    Jan. 10, 2014

    Two cone-topped minarets pierce the sky, silhouetted against a
    striking backdrop of clouds. Below them is an elaborate stone portal
    with a pointed arch, intricately carved with Islamic calligraphy and
    arabesque patterns in the style of the Seljuks, a dynasty that ruled
    much of what is now Turkey during the 12th and 13th centuries. Inside
    the archway, a wooden door sits ajar, while a small child, barefoot
    and unkempt, passes by in the foreground.

    This is a Turkey that most people will never encounter. The location
    of the impressive Gok Medrese--a madrassa, or Islamic theological
    school, built in 1271--is Sivas, in the central part of the country.
    Though it served for a time as the Seljuk capital, Sivas today is a
    provincial city that's too far off the beaten path to attract most
    foreign visitors--or even most Turks. The photo, taken in the
    mid-1960s, captures a time long before a restoration that filled in
    gaps with unsightly, gleaming new masonry.

    This and 20 other black-and-white photographs of lesser-known sites in
    Turkey--the work of the country's foremost living photographer--are on
    display in the intimate exhibit "In Focus: Ara Guler's Anatolia,"
    [http://www.asia.si.edu/exhibitions/current/ara-guler.asp] at the
    Arthur M. Sackler Gallery.

    A legend, Guler, 85, is called the "Eye of Istanbul" for his 1950s and
    '60s photos of street scenes that are among the most iconic
    representations of the city.

    The Istanbul native, whose photographic archive includes some 800,000
    images, got his start in the 1950s as a photojournalist for Hayat (the
    Turkish "Life" magazine) and went on to a distinguished career that
    included working at Magnum Photos with luminaries including Henri
    Cartier-Bresson and publishing his work around the world.

    The works in "In Focus"--never previously shown--come from a set of 53
    photographs donated to the museum in 1989 by Raymond Hare, U.S.
    ambassador to Turkey from 1961 to 1965. Hare had a keen interest in
    Middle Eastern architecture, and the photos were a gift from
    colleagues when he left Turkey.

    Shot at locations across Anatolia, the photographs mainly portray
    medieval Seljuk and Armenian monuments, along with a few other sites
    including the stunning Ishak Pasa Palace in Dogubayazit, built by the
    Ottomans in the 18th century. Whether due to deterioration or to
    restoration and modernization for tourism, most of these places don't
    look the same today.

    The photos of Armenian sites, including the 10th-century Church of the
    Holy Cross on Akdamar Island in Lake Van, are especially poignant
    because Guler himself belongs to Istanbul's dwindling Armenian
    community.

    By the time he photographed the remote ruins of Ani in northeastern
    Turkey--capital of the Bagratuni Armenian Kingdom in the 10th and 11th
    centuries--the buildings had badly deteriorated, caused by both
    natural forces and centuries of neglect. The facade of the crumbling
    Church of the Redeemer--only half of which remains erect after a
    lightning strike--appears surrounded by thick, overgrown grasses, as
    if it had stood untouched for years.

    Although Guler has traveled the globe and photographed the rich and
    famous--from Salvador Dali to Alfred Hitchcock--he is most proud of
    his work covering his native country. He explains his philosophy in a
    seven-minute accompanying video produced by FotoTV: "We press
    photographers record a visual history of our time. I find that more
    important than creating art."

    Guler has a distinctive photographic style, however, and the exhibit
    treats his photos as "art," emphasizing aesthetic elements such as
    dramatic lighting, composition, texture and framing. Labeled only with
    names, locations and dates, the works are divided into four (slightly
    contrived) thematic sections, each paired with a quotation from Guler
    and commentary that encourages viewers to contemplate the artistic
    qualities of the images.

    While presenting Guler's photos as art is valid, to a certain extent
    it removes them from their cultural and historical context. A wide
    shot of the Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents in Ani, for
    example, shows a deep river valley that snakes between two hillsides
    directly behind the church. What isn't revealed is that this river
    forms the boundary between Turkey and Armenia; the border itself is
    lined in places with mines and has been closed since 1993 due to
    long-simmering political tensions between the two countries.

    Nevertheless, even without an in-depth examination of their political
    and historical significance, Guler's photographs are compelling in
    their beauty and narrative power. Whether viewed as "art" or
    "documentation," they capture a moment in Turkey that has long since
    vanished.

    Larson is a freelance writer.

    In Focus: Ara Guler's Anatolia at the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery until May 4.

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